Washington | June 9

AFP - Indonesia on Monday offered a boost to President Barack Obama's vision of a nuclear-free world, pledging to ratify a treaty banning nuclear tests if the US Senate does so.

Obama said in April said he would ask the Senate to ratify the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty (CTBT), part of his ambitious goal of eliminating nuclear weapons unveiled in a speech in Prague.

Indonesia is one of nine countries including the United States that need to ratify the treaty, which would ban all nuclear explosions everywhere for any purpose, to come into force.

"We share his vision of a world in which nuclear weapons have been eradicated," Indonesian Foreign Minister Hassan Wirajuda said on a visit to Washington.

"We trust that he will succeed in getting the CTBT ratified - and we promise that when that happens, Indonesia will immediately follow suit," he said at the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace.

REMARKS BY THE PRESIDENT ON A NEW BEGINNING

Cairo University
Cairo, Egypt

1:10 P.M. (Local)

PRESIDENT OBAMA: Thank you very much. Good afternoon. I am honored to be in the timeless city of Cairo, and to be hosted by two remarkable institutions. For over a thousand years, Al-Azhar has stood as a beacon of Islamic learning; and for over a century, Cairo University has been a source of Egypt's advancement. And together, you represent the harmony between tradition and progress. I'm grateful for your hospitality, and the hospitality of the people of Egypt. And I'm also proud to carry with me the goodwill of the American people, and a greeting of peace from Muslim communities in my country: Assalaamu alaykum. (Applause.)

Washington | May 27

DPA - The United States offered 2.5 million dollars Tuesday in rewards for information leading to the capture or conviction of three Filipinos with alleged ties to the Abu Sayyaf terrorist group.

The US State Department will pay up to 1 million dollars for Radullan Sahiron, an alleged senior leader of the Philippine-based Abu Sayyaf, which has ties to al-Qaeda, and Abdul Basit Usman, a suspected bomb-making expert who is suspected of links to an Indonesia-based regional terrorist group known as Jemaah Islamiyah.

The State Department offered 500,000 dollars in connection with Khair Mundos, accused of providing financial help to Abu Sayyaf by transferring al-Qaeda funding.

Niniek Karmini | May 20

The Independent -
Dozens were injured and more were feared dead, with local television flashing footage of fire engulfing the mangled wreckage. Black smoke billowed in the air, as soldiers carried badly burnt bodies on stretchers to waiting ambulances.

Air force spokesman Bambang Sulistyo said at least 79 people were killed when the C-130 Hercules crashed near a base in East Java province early today. There were 112 passengers and crew on board.

Military spokesman Sagom Tamboen said the aircraft was transporting troops and their families, including at least 10 children, when it tumbled from the sky near an air force base in East Java province.

It was not clear what caused the crash, the latest in a string to hit the air force.

But several witnesses described hearing a large explosion while it was still in the air and then seeing it split apart.

"One of the wings fell off," Agus Yulianto, a villager, was quoted as saying on the Web site of Kompas newspaper. "Then the plane nose-dived into the houses."

Sunanda Creagh | Jakarta | May 13

Reuters -
Southeast Asia's biologically diverse coral reefs will disappear by the end of this century, wiping out coastal economies and sparking civil unrest if climate change isn't addressed, conservation group WWF said on Wednesday.

The Coral Triangle, a reef network that spans Indonesia, the Philippines, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, the Solomon Islands and East Timor, has more than 76 percent of the world's reef-building coral species and 35 percent of its coral reef fish species.

However, a new report commissioned by the WWF warned that much of this reef is doomed unless developed countries cut carbon emissions to 40 percent below the 1990 levels by the year 2020 and developing economies cut emissions by at least 30 percent from their current levels.

The report, based on 300 published studies and released to coincide with the World Ocean Conference in Manado, Sulawesi, warns that a do-nothing scenario will lead to a steady rise in sea temperatures, killing the coral and its dependent wildlife and hurting the livelihoods of around 100 million people.

** Coral climate crunch could displace millions ~ WWF

Noritmitsu Onishi | Jakarta | Apr 25

NY Times - From Pakistan to Gaza and Lebanon, militant Islamic movements have gained ground rapidly in recent years, fanning Western fears of a consolidation of radical Muslim governments. But here in the world’s most populous Muslim nation just the opposite is happening, with Islamic parties suffering a steep drop in popular support.

In parliamentary elections this month, voters punished Islamic parties that focused narrowly on religious issues, and even the parties’ best efforts to appeal to the country’s mainstream failed to sway the public.

The largest Islamic party, the Prosperous Justice Party, ran television commercials of young women without head scarves and distributed pamphlets in the colors of the country’s major secular parties. But the party fell far short of its goal of garnering 15 percent of the vote, squeezing out a gain of less than one percentage point over its 7.2 percent showing in 2004.

That was a big letdown for a party and a movement that had grown phenomenally in recent years, even as more radical elements directed terrorist attacks against Western tourists and targets. The party had projected that it would double its share of seats in Parliament even as it stuck to its founding goal of bringing Shariah, or Islamic law, to Indonesia, the world’s fourth most populous nation, with 240 million people.

Altogether, the major Islamic parties suffered a drop in support from 38 percent in 2004 to less than 26 percent this year, according to the Indonesian Survey Institute, an independent polling firm whose figures are in keeping with partial official results.

Ahmad Pathoni | Banda Aceh, Indonesia | Apr 6

DPA - Just four years ago, Yahya Muad and his comrades were hiding in the jungle while fighting a guerrilla war against the Indonesian army for an independent Aceh.

Now, sitting in a literally smoke-filled room in the headquarters of the Aceh Party, of which he is secretary general, he talks about democracy and peace under 'a united Indonesia.'

The Aceh Party, the political wing of former rebels of the Free Aceh Movement (GAM), is one of six political parties allowed to contest for legislative seats in Aceh province as part of Indonesia's April 9 general elections.

The participation of local political parties in Indonesia's elections is unprecedented, made possible by a 2005 peace agreement between GAM and the Jakarta government, which provides for wider autonomy for Aceh in return for the rebels abandoning their struggle for independence

Jakarta | Mar 27

BBC - A dam has burst south-west of the Indonesian capital Jakarta, killing dozens of people.

Witnesses said a "horrifying" flash flood engulfed hundreds of homes in Cirendeu in the Tangerang district.

Officials say about 50 bodies have been found but the death toll is expected to rise as many more people are missing.

It is not clear what caused the burst but an official said the Situ Gintung lake behind the dam became overloaded after hours of heavy rain.

Paul Watson | Jakarta | Feb 17

LA Times - The U.S., keen to improve ties with the Muslim nation, has said it would like to renew the program, which ended in 1965 amid leftist hostility. Today, some in Jakarta see it as a condescending effort.

The last time Indonesiaallowed Peace Corps volunteers to work here, they weren't sent into villages to teach English or build schools. The Americans were assigned to whip athletes into shape for the 1964 Olympics.

The peculiar aid to reluctant hosts didn't work out: Jakarta ended up boycotting the Tokyo Games, and thugs from the Indonesian Communist Party, which accused the American coaches of being CIA agents, ran them out of the country in 1965, less than three years after they had arrived.

More than four decades later, when Islamic extremism is considered the biggest foreign threat to the United States, the Obama administration hopes to persuade the government of the world's most populous Muslim country to let the Peace Corps return.

Irwan Firdaus | Jakarta | Jan 11

WaPo - An Indonesian passenger ferry sank in a storm Sunday with around 250 passengers and 17 crew onboard after being battered by seven-foot (two-meter) waves, officials said.

Eighteen survivors were rescued by fishing boats, but the fate of the others remained unclear, said Taufik, a port official who uses one name, as is common in Indonesia.

Transport Minister Jusman Syafi'i Djamal said the captain reported that 150 people had jumped off the boat before it sank, but he did not know what happened to them.

"We have prepared a search and rescue operation, but now there are high waves hampering the process," Djamal said.

As I await my return to Malaysia tomorrow I've spent some time pondering the differences between Sumatra in particular and Indonesia in general versus the rest of South-East Asia. Indonesia is not of East Asia, not by a long shot. If anything it resembles an odd cross between India and Polynesia. Indeed, I believe Indonesia is often referred to as a part of Melanesia. It's certainly not of the West, either, having its own rhythms and its own unique way of doing things. But does it have much, if anything at all in common with the rest of South-East Asia? No.

For starters it is dominated by Islam (Aceh, Sumatra, and Java) with large pockets of Christianity (Bataks and the Nusa Tenggara island chain), Hinduism (in Bali) and tribal animism (Papua and other far out islands). There is no Buddhism here, nor is there any real Confucian influence, outside of the small Overseas Chinese communities, which make up about 3% of the population of Indonesia.

(The entire archive of Indonesia photos can be found here.)

Second, the peoples: they are extremely diverse. Some of them have the pan-East Asia look, but most do not, looking more like a cross between Arab, Hindu and Polynesian, with some even resembling the Aboriginal peoples of Australia. They are built differently. The women have wider hips and larger breasts than those in East Asia. The men are taller have broader chests and their hair, men and women alike is much more varied than the straight, coarse black hair so common across East Asia.

More after the jump.

No, I wasn't any where near the earthquake in Papua. That's like thousands of miles away from where I am. But damn, I miss Toba already. I left this morning. I didn't want to leave. And I will return. I don't know when but I have a project in mind with regards to Toba and the Batak people.

I took some photos on my iPhone on the way back into Medan. There was a massive landslide on the road out of town and traffic was blocked for a few hours until they cleared one lane. My mini-bus was built to seat nine, but there were seventeen of us in it, including an adorable little girl next to me.

I took some photos of a rubber plantation owned by Bridgestone. Real rubber trees. How cool is that? And I took two photos of a small town flooded by the local river but still going about business as usual. I admire the Indonesians. They have fortitude and toughness, but are amazingly kind.

As I the ferry pulled out from my guest house the whole family was there waving me good-bye. It brought tears to my eyes. I've been to some special places, folks, but Lake Toba? It's the greatest place I've ever been. Hands down. Beats them all. I don't know if it was the people, the island, the scenery, the coffee or something in the air. But a piece of my heart is still there and always will be.

January 4

BBC -
An earthquake with a magnitude of 7.6 has rocked eastern Indonesia, US seismologists say.

The tremor struck south-west of Manokwari, West Papua province, at 0443 on Sunday (1943 GMT), according to the US Geological Survey.

Residents ran outdoors and to higher ground. A tsunami alert was issued but withdrawn within an hour.

The Indonesian archipelago lies over several continental plates where seismic activity happens regularly.
More

I'll be leaving Lake Toba tomorrow, early and won't be near a computer for a few days. But I wanted to leave you all with my best memory of Toba: New Year's Eve.

From my travel journal:

"Yesterday was a good way to end 2008. I didn't do much--had breakfast at my guesthouse, wrote, went up to Samosir Cottages to check my email, read some Thucydides, and then roused myself up--some how finding a hidden store of energy--and went to the bookstore. I bought two new books: The Walled Orchard, by Tom Holt, which is a comic retelling of the Peloponnesian War and Gates of Rome, by Conn Iggulden, about the early life of Julius Ceasar.

More after the jump.

I haven't been writing much about Lake Toba lately for two reasons: one, I'm still recovering from my unfortunate encounter with the water buffalo and two, there really isn't much to blog about when all you do is walk around, hang out with the locals, gossip, read, relax, talk some more, sing some songs and generally do nothing. But, I've got photos here from New Year's Eve and the amazing rain shower yesterday, so you can check those out if you like.

I realized today that it's been six months since I left home--Austin, to be exact--and a little more than three months since I left my job. I had a return flight from Singapore to Austin on December 24th, but clearly, I'm not ready to return. Bruised ribs aside, I feel great. The only adventure I've had in the last few days was the drive to Siantar, an hour north of here to get some cash.

More after the jump.

As is my personal custom I usually spend the few days before the new year recounting the one soon to be passed. A taking stock, of sorts.

In the grand scheme of things 2008 hasn't been a bad year. A lot of really good things happened in 2008. My back injury all but disappeared, with only minor appearances of nerve damage in my legs from time to time. There were no major personal or family catastrophes as occurred in 2007. Sure, Tatiana and I ended our marriage. But in the end that was one of the best things to happen in 2008. Freedom from constant emotional chaos and blackmail is not to be underrated.

I got a great job, working for a great company. There I achieved some real success. Solid and tangible. I gained the respect of my peers. I was given a 'Top Hand' Award, which was a real highlight--to be acknowledged as on of the hardest working, most valued employees of the company added to a growing sense of personal value and esteem, feelings that I'd lost touch with over the last few years.

My mother and I repaired our relationship, after several years of estrangement. I grew to love and respect her more than I ever thought possible.

I put San Antonio, and the phantom obligations I thought I owed the place behind me, leaving for good. I got an amazing opportunity to work and live in an amazing South East Asian city: Singapore. I took the chance and made the best of it. And finally, I took the chance to live a dream, a dream I had long given up on ever happening: to travel the world with no more than the possessions I could fit in a backpack. I've seen seven new countries, all unique and fascinating.

Sure, there was sadness and grief. My ex-wife graduated and attained citizenship, two events I once so looked forward to sharing with her. But the dream of our marriage died and with it those hopes. I don't deny the sadness in both, a sense of loss and failure. But if those are the worst things to have happened in 2008 then, on balance, I would have to consider 2008 a damn good year.

And so, I sit here looking out over this glorious lake, sunshine everywhere reflecting the teal blue waters and the rich green hillsides, penning these thoughts and I give thanks.

Thanks for a year well lived, lessons well learned and most importantly, for a sense of self, confidence and faith regained.

And how was your year?

Note to self: next time you ride a moped a.) make absolute certain there are no farmers pulling out around blind curves and b.) that there are no water buffalos in your path once the farmer has hit your moped.

I'm not feeling so well, as I have a couple of bruised ribs today and a mild concussion. (Yes, I went to the doctor: no internal injuries and no broken bones.) So, I will be out of commission for a few days as I lay in bed, read Herodotus and Thucydides and watch my iPod whilst recuperating; I have several shows of the Boondocks and Metalocalypse to catch up on.

Needless to say, I am glad I was driving well below the speed limit (not that there really is one here in Indonesia) and, oddly enough, that the water buffalo was there to break my fall, had he not been I would have landed straight into a rock fence. On an angrier note: the farmer who crashed into me didn't even stop to see if I was okay and several people here on the island are looking for him. (There were several witnesses.)

All that being said, water-buffalos, even at 15 miles per hour feel very much like a brick wall. Although I did learn that the human body and that of a water buffalo make a great cushion for a camera. My Nikon D50 came through the accident without a scratch. I guess my ribs and the hide of the water buffalo absorbed most of the force. (The water buffalo walked away without a scratch as well.)

Here are some photos from yesterday.

I'm sure I will look back at this incident in a few weeks and laugh. At least, as soon as the headache goes away.

New photos are up from Christmas Eve here at Lake Toba.

I had to take the ferry into Parapat to get cash from the ATM--there are none on the island. I traveled with Mike and Ricky, a Mancunian and Austinite respectively.

We had a great meal of halal Padang food in Parapat.

We also saw a damn cool Brahminy Kite.

We bought lots of fireworks for the Christmas celebrations.

The Batak Christmas Eve celebrations were great.

Bart, Ricky, Mike and I had a good time.

And the after party at my guest house was even funner.

May you all have a wonderful day, where ever you are.

Merry Christmas!

I hope you all have a wonderful Christmas!

I am looking forward to eating a roast suckling pig tonight, turned over a fire all day long. I'll post the pictures tomorrow.

The sun is shining. It hasn't rained in days.

The guitarists are getting ready and the palm wine is being sold out at a rapid pace.

Merry Christmas to everyone!

Songbirds whistle in the trees. The soft patter of children running in the street and the sleepy rustle of leaves in the breeze fill my ears.

“Horas,” they call out in greeting. A child whines and clothes dry in the cool lake air. Branches sway; the sun falls upon my face; some invisible force pulls the clouds away and over the mountains. They watch calmly. They are patient—just like the Batak.

Shouts rise from the pier below: a ferry passes, conversations drift in off the water. Carried by the wind. A boy calls to his father. A moped sputters past and ‘Uncle’ pulls in smoke from his cigarette. He taps out a rhythm on the table with his fingers, bends over, whispers something to the boy next to him who dutifully rises, returning with a full glass of palm wine.

More after the jump.

Danna Harman | Dekai, Indonesia | Dec 18

CSM -
Where is it, why do you want to go there, and why couldn’t I have had normal children, my mother asks.

Part 1 of a four-part series

Why Papua? My mom asks me. And where is it, anyway? I have no immediate answers. But a week later I have not only found it on a map and purchased all forms of cool camping paraphernalia (think quick-dry towels and waterproof socks) but also come up with a philosophy to explain the importance of voyaging across the world to this tropical land. My mom closes her eyes, raises her eyebrows, and wishes she had normal children.

The sparsely populated island of New Guinea, the second-largest island in the world after Greenland, is divided between two countries: the independent nation of Papua New Guinea in the east, and the Indonesian Papua in the west – formally known as Irian Jaya. More than 75 percent of Papua is covered by impenetrable jungle, and is home to a wide diversity of plant and animal life, as well as an array of indigenous, so-called “primitive” tribes – many of whom have little or no contact with the world outside.

Believed to number some 3,000 to 4,000 people, the Korowai of southeastern Papua are one such tribe. They were “discovered” in the 1970s but remain isolated. They hunt with bows and arrows, subsist for weeks on roots and beetle larvae, are illiterate, and don’t wear clothing. They practice polygamy, believe in witchcraft, and live in scattered treehouses some 25 feet off the ground. They are also thought to be among the last people in the world to practice cannibalism.

Jakarta | Nov 3

CSM - An elite government agency is nabbing offenders in one of the world's most corrupt countries.

Once a byword for corruption, Indonesia has begun to fight back against the well-connected bribers, brokers, and embezzlers who have for decades fed off its public sector.

Almost every day brings news of another arrest or trial hearing on corruption charges, and the faces of the accused are familiar: lawmakers, judges, police, and other government officials. Once ensnared, these high-fliers try to wriggle off the hook, as was so often the case during past anticorruption drives. But these days they usually find their efforts are in vain.

At the forefront of Indonesia's battle with public-sector graft is the elite Corruption Eradication Commission, known as the KPK, which reports directly to President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. After quietly building up its manpower and expertise, with help from the United States and other foreign donors, the KPK has gone on the warpath this year, taking on powerful institutions long seen as untouchable.

Its efforts have lifted Indonesia's reputation in international surveys. Transparency International, a watchdog group that compiles a widely watched corruption index, gave Indonesia a score of 2.6 out of 10 for 2008, up from 1.9 in 2003, and ranked it 126th out of 180 countries surveyed.

Jakarta | Nov 3

Reuters - Three bombs exploded in Indonesia's Moluccas islands early on Monday morning, local television reported.

The bombs went off in Ternate, in North Maluku, including one which exploded outside the governor's office, local television stations Metro TV and TV1 reported.

Indonesian authorities have stepped up security in recent days ahead of the imminent execution of three Muslim militants for their role in the 2002 Bali bomb attacks in which 202 people died.

James Morgan | Lusi | Nov 2

BBC - The eruption of the Lusi mud volcano in Indonesia was caused by drilling for oil and gas, a meeting of 74 leading geologists has concluded.

Lusi erupted in May 2006 and continues to spew out boiling mud, displacing around 30,000 people in East Java.

Drilling firm Lapindo Brantas denies a nearby well was the trigger, blaming an earthquake 280km (174 miles) away.

Around 10,000 families who have lost their homes are awaiting compensation, which could run as high as $70m (£43m).

After debating new evidence at a conference in South Africa, most geologists voted drilling as the cause.

Correspondents describe the result a significant development in the tug-of-war to establish liability for the disaster.

David Montero | Jakarta | Oct 28

CSM - Lily Munir asks the 50 young mothers in her classroom to use their imaginations. What would it be like, she says, if your husband supported your right to work and helped with housework?

The women in their seats look surprised at the question. Some of them laugh.

What begins as jokes about bad husbands grows into a serious discussion about gender roles and women's rights. Islam supports women's empowerment, Ms. Munir tells her students, so men should, too.

It's a simple but important way Munir, who since 2002 has run the Center for Pesantren and Democracy Studies in Jakarta, is challenging traditional views on gender in Indonesia, the world's largest Muslim country.

In so doing, she is reclaiming what she sees as the Koran's intended but lost message.

Where many in the West see a book of intolerance, Munir sees a text whose basic demand is harmony among all faiths. Where radical Islamists see a call to arms, she sees a blueprint for peace.

And instead of looking at Koranic verses that justify gender disparities, Munir sees a mandate for all men to work for the empowerment of women.