Some Things You Should Know About Kyrgyzstan




  
pic

Some Things You Should Know About Kyrgyzstan
Sean-Paul Kelley | San Antonio | March 26

These are disjointed but important ideas culled from a larger piece about Kyrgyzstan that I am working on right now. Enjoy.  

Osh was first settled sometime around 400 BCE. It is Kyrgyzstan's second largest city, and the place where the Tulip Revolution began. It sits on the far eastern end of the Ferghana valley, where the Pamir and Tian Shan ranges converge (the third and fourth highest ranges in the world). Overshadowed by Solomon's throne, a huge basalt dome of a rock that resembles a camel's hump and is an Islamic shrine, the city is mostly ethnic Uzbek, who arrived in the 15th century from the Ob River basin. Osh is adjacent to Andijon, home of Babur, the first Mughal emperor. Osh was also the scene of some of the region's worst communal violence. In 1990 almost 300 people died as Soviet authorities simply looked away.

more after the jump


The best rasberry jam (homemade) I ever I had was from the wife of my taxi driver, Mahmud, I belive his name was. I better go check my notes. He was an Uzbek citizen of Kyrgyzstan.

A Kyrgyz proverb that is still rather apt in the north says:

"If you are only given one day's life,

Spend half of it in the saddle."

This new revolution got a lot of its momentum from the originating protests in the south. It is a serious situation that bears watching. The south of Kyrgystan isn't an idyllic mountain paradise like the north is. It's a gritty, hot and flat economic wasteland at the far end of the Ferghana valley--it is much like the Uzbek and Tajik Ferghana. The Ferghana may pretend to be Uzbekistan's breadbasket but I think it's an economic basketcase for Kyrgyzstan. Rumors of weapons caches abound for the inevitable Islamic revolution. (Just rumors, I guess.)

Anyhow, were I a policymaker I'd be watching the south for first moves. Cotton monoculture. Wahhabist relief organizations. The non-violent Hizb-ut-Tahrir in the ascendant. Violent splinter group emergent.

One of the very real concerns US policy makers should have is just who is going to be "ruling" in the south of the country, in places like Jalalabad and Osh. I've been to both and they are predominately Uzbeks with a high minority of Kyrgyz. The Uzbeks feel underrepresented and many of them subscribe to or are partial to Hizb-ut-Tahrir.

By way of contrast the Kyrgyz in the north are still primarily a nomadic people. They live in the mountains and shepherd horses. They sell kumys by the roadside, mostly in bright blue containers that resemble anti-freeze bottles here in the US. They still engage in an age old cultural rite known as bride theft. Heck, this is even common in the cities, like Bishkek. The Kyrgyz resemble Mongolians more than any other post Soviet minority I have ever come in contact with.

When it gets too cold in the higher passes, they migrate south over the Tian Shan into China or into the Kazakh Steppe. One of the amazing things about Kyrgyzstan is just how much collectivization didn't completely and utterly ruin the culture, like in Uzebkistan and Turkmenistan. When the Soviet Union dissolved in '91 many, many Kyrgyz simply left the collective farms, and headed for the hills.

On a good day, if you're lucky, like I was, you can see a Kyrgyz clan pulling their old abandoned railway car on tires! by horse. A small herd of horses and the men trailing behind. Incredibly kind and curious people. If you ever get the chance to visit, do so. I highly recommend the place. Especially for an ex-Soviet state. It's wonderful.

More later, maybe.


Sean Paul Kelley March 26, 2005 - 10:13pm

A good friend of mine from Poland went to Kyrgyzstan for a month of backpacking in the summer of 1993 with her sort of boyfriend.  They loved it.  Absolutely gorgeous and dirt cheap.  The only thing they didn't like was the internal flight.  It was the pilot's birthday and so he, the co-pilot and everyone else in the crew kept on coming out and pouring shots for themselves and the passengers.  To make matters worse the plane wasn't capable of flying above the mountains so it flew between them.

I also wanted to recommend Ryszard Kapuscinski's book 'Kyrgyz on a horse' which recounts his travels in Central Asia in the late sixties but it seems to be the only one of his many books not translated into English.  His book on the Soviet Union - Imperium covers some of the same ground but it is focussed on the disintegrating Soviet empire.  If you haven't read Kapuscinski before I strongly recommend his two best books Shah of Shahs about the Islamic Revolution and Emperor

about Haile Selassie's regime just before it all crashed down.

Marek March 27, 2005 - 1:51am

Not.  Had it once - some ex-Soviets at a party in a Warsaw dorm in the early nineties.  I've always had a 'I'll try anything once' policy for food. Once. Imagine someone adding a bit of alcohol to some very funky yogurt.

Marek March 27, 2005 - 3:03am

" To make matters worse the plane wasn't capable of flying above the mountains so it flew between them."

I briefly pondered flying from Osh to Bishkek. I asked the ticketing agent how the mountains looked and she smiled and said, "you will see them very closely as you fly through them!"

Fuck that, I said. I'll take a twelve hour drive.

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 2:51am

drink, it is always difficult in situations like that, where the natives are curious, and open and sharing their lives with you, that it is so difficult to drink. In some places it can be, and often is, taken as an insult. Especially in Georgia. Eeee-yikes! Tamada bada too mucha drinka in Georgia.

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 3:16am

to be pretty good.  Granted, I'd been living in Uzbekistan for a year by that point and drinking a lot of homemade kefir...  It just seemed like thin kefir with a kick to me.  

I don't know if I'd trust it outside of Kyrgyzstan or Kazakhstan though.  It might have been better because it was fresh (as fresh as spoiled horse milk could be...)

Nathan Hamm March 27, 2005 - 4:17pm

for several months in the ex-Soviet Union.  Everyone tells me it's much worse than Poland. That's saying something. I remember a few years ago just before Easter showing up for a morning meeting at the Wroclaw historical institute. There was someone I hadn't met.  Hey, Marek - we need to celebrate this, I've got a nice bottle of some Lithuanian vodka I got at the conference last month - time to drink it. Uggh. There went my afternoon plans for the archive.  Most of the time it wasn't that bad, but often enough.  

Marek March 27, 2005 - 3:26am

if I drink I die. That usually did the trick.

But even then, there was this little babushka (she is the mother of a friend of my father's) in Georgia who wouldn't let up. It damn near turned into a fiasco, the whole dinner party had to calm her down. She was so upset that I wouldn't drink a toast in her house, after she cooked such a lovely meal, yadda, yadda, yadda. I left the next day to find a hotel in Tbilisi. I am sure you are aware that insulting Georgians is not a good thing. ;-)

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 3:35am

Taiwan! Now THAT was a close call.

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 3:39am

I couldn't.  I do drink and some of the people there knew it since I'd been out with them.  I'm just not fond of a half dozen shots at ten in the morning.

Marek March 27, 2005 - 3:46am

graham March 27, 2005 - 3:41am

"La cabane à sucre" :)

No one can sanely take care of a mapple sugar farm while sober :)

Mathieu March 27, 2005 - 8:07am

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 2:26pm

I completely agree with you.

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 2:26pm

I met a Russian girl in a bar not so long ago. She taught me a kid song about a little birdie drinking vodka but I forgot it ... but not the girl :)

You know what I'm talking about ?

About Vermont, I'm getting pretty far from the subject of the thread but, you know there is a sovereignist movement there ? I've seen some member at a Parti Quebecois congress some years ago . It once was an independant state formed from new-France if I remember well :)

Mathieu March 27, 2005 - 4:41pm

I was offered Kumys in a sort of official, obligatory way. We'd been traveling all day headed towards the Torugart pass into China. It smelled like ick-ick, similar, I thought to a fermented milk the Koreans drink and that my students there tried to make me drink.

Oh well.

Nice to see you around Nathan!

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 4:25pm

Vermont is one weird state! I was only 15 at the time I lived there and was, well, a little chemically challenged at the time for I was going to a school where the parents basically pay the school a whole lot of money to a.) guarantee their kids graduate and b.) don't get into too much trouble.

Maybe sometime I will tell The Agonistas about the time the whole campus tripped on LSD and freaked out on the trees.

Oh my, that was a long time ago.

Sean Paul Kelley March 27, 2005 - 4:51pm

In my years it was more ecstasy , affectuously called "E" . Kurt Cobain was dead and we needed something new and "positive".

we were going to those "new" thing called rave, discovered the PLUR, the free love with AIDS background, the industrial, the goa and internet.

You make me nostalgic SP :) At the time I was in a school for "kids with an advantage" , or nerds school. The authorities there have this naive view that because were were brighter than other, they was no need to watch for stuff like drug etc... That just learned me that a school with no drugs does not exist Period. I also learend that putting all the bright people in the same place is not a good idea. Half people actually ends-up well, the other goes crazy wild, become homeless of chief of a biker gang. And most of them went through some phase of depression etc... etc.. etc.. :)

Mathieu March 27, 2005 - 5:37pm

Comment viewing options

Select your preferred way to display the comments and click "Save settings" to activate your changes.