Göbekli Tepe Photo Dump


Göbekli TepeFor those of you who prefer the photos, you'll be happy today. I've uploaded about fifty or so. I visited two sites today: Harran (the ancient Carrhae) and Göbekli Tepe, the oldest temple complex in the world. Göbekli Tepe is 11,500 years old. Yes, that puts it before the agricultural revolution and the simple fact of its existence raises serious question about our understanding of the transition from hunter gatherers to sedentary farmers. As the primary excavator of the site puts it: "First came the temple, then the city." This literally turns our understanding of events here in the Fertile Crescent on their head. In the past everyone has assumed that the city came first and then the temple. (Here is an excellent background article from the Smithsonian Magazine about the site.) But this site puts the lie to that notion. It's also quite possible that the agricultural revolution began right here. In this exact spot. It would not be an imprudent assumption to make.

Photos can be found here.

A few words on the site location are in order. The landscape surrounding Göbekli Tepe is quite fertile. (The main site sits atop a hill overlooking an amazing pastoral scene.) The rolling hills here are very reminiscent of Khorasan in Eastern Iran, although it is greener here by a few shades. Actually, the resemblance to the Turcoman Steppes is quite profound. (Compare and contrast with today's photo.) There is no doubt that the human footprint has altered the place beyond anything imaginable 11,000 years ago. I tried my best to think about what it looked like, based on the flora and fauna native to the area. There must have been amazing fields of wild wheat everywhere. Gazelles grazing in the landscape. A wealth of fruit bearing trees. And multiple streams and rivers coursing about everywhere. But my imagination, I am in no doubt, probably fails me miserably. There are lots of landscape photos in the gallery to gain some perspective. Sometimes there just aren't any words.

On a different topic: I failed to get into Syria therefore I'm going to head to Mosul and Erbil tomorrow. So, it should go without saying that I'll not have internet access for several days. I will do my level best to not get blowed up.


Sean Paul Kelley May 5, 2009 - 9:04am

why didn't you get into syria? did your visa actually get rejected?

upyernoz May 5, 2009 - 10:14am

give out visas to Americans. They must get the visas in America, unless they are residents of Turkey. So, I went to the border today, crossed the Turkish side without problems, strolled up the the Syrian side--a friend of a friend was helping arrange a small transfer of money for a visa at the border. It didn't work out. The guy working the Syrian side who was supposed to meet me disappeared last night. I'm not out any money or anything like that. Just a waste of a few hours.

Fuck it man, I'd wade through a river of shit ten times to see this place. ~ On Istanbul, April 2009

Sean Paul Kelley May 5, 2009 - 10:19am

looks to be an Anatolian Shepherd.

Quite excellent livestock guard dogs. Great Pryenees without the white fur. More suitable for hot climates.

I did inhale.

Don May 5, 2009 - 10:15am

were plenty of sheep in the area as well.

Fuck it man, I'd wade through a river of shit ten times to see this place. ~ On Istanbul, April 2009

Sean Paul Kelley May 5, 2009 - 10:17am

you might want to occasionally read the news...

Tina May 5, 2009 - 10:17am

Fuck it man, I'd wade through a river of shit ten times to see this place. ~ On Istanbul, April 2009

Sean Paul Kelley May 5, 2009 - 10:19am

lately, except for that is where they are killing Americans. Are you looking to interview Al Qaeda Iraq? ;-)

Tina May 5, 2009 - 10:27am

Fuck it man, I'd wade through a river of shit ten times to see this place. ~ On Istanbul, April 2009

Sean Paul Kelley May 5, 2009 - 10:30am

pretend to be British or Canadian ;-) BTW you are insane after all :D
Take care.

Tina May 5, 2009 - 10:34am

...current good information on the threatcon and some sort of liason in-country?

Statistical summary of events over previous seven months:

Attack Statistics In Mosul Based Upon Press Reports

April 2009
79 Attacks/Incidents – 2.63 attacks & incidents/day
53 Deaths – 1.76 deaths/day
191 Wounded – 6.36 wounded/day

March 2009
86 attacks/incidents – 2.77 attacks & incidents/day
69 deaths – 2.22 deaths/day
169 wounded – 5.45 wounded/day

February 2009
81 attacks/incidents – 2.89 attacks & incidents/day
58 deaths – 2.0 deaths/day
111 wounded – 3.96 wounded/day

January 2009
52 attacks/incidents – 1.67 attacks & incidents/day
56 deaths – 1.80 killed/day
85 wounded – 2.74 wounded/day

December 2008
65 attacks/incidents – 2.09 attacks & incidents/day
68 deaths – 2.19 deaths/day
181 wounded – 5.83 wounded/day

November 2008
65 attacks/incidents – 2.16 attacks & incidents/day
53 deaths – 1.76 deaths/day
249 wounded – 8.3 wounded/day

October 2008
92 attacks/incidents – 2.96 attacks & incidents/day
112 deaths – 3.61 deaths/day
188 wounded – 6.06 wounded/day

Can't vouch for the source as I haven't been following it, but it seems consistent with the reporting we've been seeing.

As of Sept 2008, this was the mode of travel:

How does an American civilian travel to Mosul? With armed bodyguards and a headscarf. On the way out of town I traveled with a member of the city council, and we also had two military escorts, one up front and one behind, each with a machine gunner and four Iraqi soldiers in bulletproof vests and masks.

Headscarf I believe you can do without, the rest of it - not so sure.

“The absence of any US-Iran bilateral channel...may have the perverse effect of reinforcing Iranian interest in progressing in the nuclear realm so that the US will be forced to take it seriously and engage it directly." ~ Richard Haass

JustPlainDave May 5, 2009 - 11:39am

... a lot when I was a kid. I've been up the Nile when I was thirteen. Having grown up in Europe I am used to ancient beauty and so none of the sites you've been posting about kindled any burning desire in me - but ever since I read about it I wanted to visit Göbekli Tepe.

quax May 5, 2009 - 4:03pm

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