Reflections On India


And People Wonder Why The Lights Go Out In Delhi So Often?If you are Indian, or of Indian descent, I must preface this post with a clear warning: you are not going to like what I have to say. My criticisms may be very hard to stomach. But consider them as the hard words and loving advice of a good friend. Someone who's being honest with you and wants nothing from you. These criticisms apply to all of India except Kerala and the places I didn't visit, except that I have a feeling it applies to all of India, except as I mentioned before, Kerala. Lastly, before anyone accuses me of Western Cultural Imperialism, let me say this: if this is what India and Indians want, then hey, who am I to tell them differently. Take what you like and leave the rest. In the end it doesn't really matter, as I get the sense that Indians, at least many upper class Indians, don't seem to care and the lower classes just don't know any better, what with Indian culture being so intense and pervasive on the sub-continent. But here goes, nonetheless.

India is a mess. It's that simple, but it's also quite complicated. I'll start with what I think are India's four major problems--the four most preventing India from becoming a developing nation--and then move to some of the ancillary ones.

First, pollution. In my opinion the filth, squalor and all around pollution indicates a marked lack of respect for India by Indians. I don't know how cultural the filth is, but it's really beyond anything I have ever encountered. At times the smells, trash, refuse and excrement are like a garbage dump. Right next door to the Taj Mahal was a pile of trash that smelled so bad, was so foul as to almost ruin the entire Taj experience. Delhi, Bangalore and Chennai to a lesser degree were so very polluted as to make me physically ill. Sinus infections, ear infection, bowels churning was an all to common experience in India. Dung, be it goat, cow or human fecal matter was common on the streets. In major tourist areas filth was everywhere, littering the sidewalks, the roadways, you name it. Toilets in the middle of the road, men urinating and defecating anywhere, in broad daylight. Whole villages are plastic bag wastelands. Roadsides are choked by it. Air quality that can hardly be called quality. Far too much coal and far too few unleaded vehicles on the road. The measure should be how dangerous the air is for one's health, not how good it is. People casually throw trash in the streets, on the roads. The only two cities that could be considered sanitary in my journey were Trivandrum--the capital of Kerala--and Calicut. I don't know why this is. But I can assure you that at some point this pollution will cut into India's productivity, if it already hasn't. The pollution will hobble India's growth path, if that indeed is what the country wants. (Which I personally doubt, as India is far too conservative a country, in the small 'c' sense.)

More after the jump.

The second issue, infrastructure, can be divided into four subcategories: roads, rails and ports and the electrical grid. The electrical grid is a joke. Load shedding is all too common, everywhere in India. Wide swaths of the country spend much of the day without the electricity they actually pay for. With out regular electricity, productivity, again, falls. The ports are a joke. Antiquated, out of date, hardly even appropriate for the mechanized world of container ports, more in line with the days of longshoremen and the like. Roads are an equal disaster. I only saw one elevated highway that would be considered decent in Thailand, much less Western Europe or America. And I covered fully two thirds of the country during my visit. There are so few dual carriage way roads as to be laughable. There are no traffic laws to speak of, and if there are, they are rarely obeyed, much less enforced. A drive that should take an hour takes three. A drive that should take three takes nine. The buses are at least thirty years old, if not older. Everyone in India, or who travels in India raves about the railway system. Rubbish. It's awful. Now, when I was there in 2003 and then late 2004 it was decent. But in the last five years the traffic on the rails has grown so quickly that once again, it is threatening productivity. Waiting in line just to ask a question now takes thirty minutes. Routes are routinely sold out three and four days in advance now, leaving travelers stranded with little option except to take the decrepit and dangerous buses. At least fifty million people use the trains a day in India. 50 million people! Not surprising that waitlists of 500 or more people are common now. The rails are affordable and comprehensive but they are overcrowded and what with budget airlines popping up in India like Sadhus in an ashram the middle and lowers classes are left to deal with the overutilized rails and quality suffers. No one seems to give a shit. Seriously, I just never have the impression that the Indian government really cares. Too interested in buying weapons from Russia, Israel and the US I guess.

The last major problem in India is an old problem and can be divided into two parts that've been two sides of the same coin since government was invented: bureaucracy and corruption. It take triplicates to register into a hotel. To get a SIM card for one's phone is like wading into a jungle of red-tape and photocopies one is not likely to emerge from in a good mood, much less satisfied with customer service. Getting train tickets is a terrible ordeal, first you have to find the train number, which takes 30 minutes, then you have to fill in the form, which is far from easy, then you have to wait in line to try and make a reservation, which takes 30 minutes at least and if you made a single mistake on the form back you go to the end of the queue, or what passes for a queue in India. The government is notoriously uninterested in the problems of the commoners, too busy fleecing the rich, or trying to get rich themselves in some way shape or form. Take the trash for example, civil rubbish collection authorities are too busy taking kickbacks from the wealthy to keep their areas clean that they don't have the time, manpower, money or interest in doing their job. Rural hospitals are perennially understaffed as doctors pocket the fees the government pays them, never show up at the rural hospitals and practice in the cities instead.

I could go on for quite some time about my perception of India and its problems, but in all seriousness, I don't think anyone in India really cares. And that, to me, is the biggest problem. India is too conservative a society to want to change in any way. Mumbai, India's financial capital is about as filthy, polluted and poor as the worst city imaginable in Vietnam, or Indonesia--and being more polluted than Medan, in Sumatra is no easy task. The biggest rats I have ever seen were in Medan!

One would expect a certain amount of, yes, I am going to use this word, backwardness, in a country that hasn't produced so many Nobel Laureates, nuclear physicists, imminent economists and entrepreneurs. But India has all these things and what have they brought back to India with them? Nothing. The rich still have their servants, the lower castes are still there to do the dirty work and so the country remains in stasis. It's a shame. Indians and India have many wonderful things to offer the world, but I'm far from sanguine that India will amount to much in my lifetime.

Now, have at it, call me a cultural imperialist, a spoiled child of the West and all that. But remember, I've been there. I've done it. And I've seen 50 other countries on this planet and none, not even Ethiopia, have as long and gargantuan a laundry list of problems as India does. And the bottom line is, I don't think India really cares. Too complacent and too conservative.


Sean Paul Kelley March 26, 2009 - 7:36am

For one, if reincarnationists have it right, you're better than six times more likely to reappear as an Indian than you are as an American.

I've often thought how appropriate it would be were bush and cheney to come back as Iraqis...

I did inhale.

Don March 26, 2009 - 9:03am

I have always been fascinated by the east west split divided by the Himalayas. Indians after all are our Sanscrit language based cousins.
The Chinese something else.
China and India have a lot of similarities and a lot of different outcomes.
China is working on Indian type problems with a harsh authoritarianism that gets things done...just like Mussolini in Italy, the trains will run on time or someone is going down to the river to get a bullet through the head and the organs harvested.
India is free chaos. You can do just about what you want. It is more or less a functioning democracy, although like us, they have removed their leader with a bullet sometimes.
The Brits, as commercial managers for decadent Mughals, and then as imperial delusionists, tried for several hundred years to bring order to India. After Cornwallis was defeated at Yorktown, his next assignment was to go to Calcutta to clean up the East India Company civil service. He succeeded with that quite well. However, it didn't really last.
The Brits really went home with their tail between their legs in 1948, whipped and defeated by India. That empire never was a plus for Britain.
Think about Ghandi. Lawyer educated in London ends up in a loin cloth living an ascetic existence while bringing down an empire.
Next time try visiting one of the Yoga Ashrams, say at RishiKesh, and try to get more into the head space of India. That is probably her biggest gift. And the fact that she sure can mess with western mind.

JT March 26, 2009 - 11:06am

... is left to the free market.

quax March 26, 2009 - 5:28pm

I've been wondering why some of the nastiest, most corrupt Republicans are Indian immigrants, and now I know. From what SP describes, the Indian upper class has an attitude towards government that fits perfectly with today's Republicans, that government is a way for you to get rich, and any other considerations can go to hell. Repugs revel in their disdain for the poor, the middle class and the environment.

Look at the dilapidation of New Orleans after Katrina and you can see the beginnings of Bobby Jindal's vision for Louisiana's future. Their governor has the same attitude as an Indian politician.
.
Good times for Smiley! :-D

Jimbo92107 March 26, 2009 - 11:16am

After all Bobby Jindal is know to be a Christianist nut case - at least in this aspect he is culturally as far removed from India as humanly possible.

quax March 26, 2009 - 5:31pm

Were small, average just over 5 ft tall. After "emigrating" to Australia, their children were neary 6 ft tall.

Short lives form Pollution, poor diet & poverty. Education has a poor return on investment (beacuse the educated die young).

aka: Poor, nasty, brutish & short.

Synoia March 26, 2009 - 11:19am

but these are not issues that cropped up in the last few years, but systemic issues which have been in Indian society for decades. For example, there are enough laws about trash on the streets, but imposing the law is impossible because these laws were put in place without popular acclaim and thus are disdained by the populace. A systemic solution is needed, which imposes rewards and punishments to get society to the desired space. For example, if someone paid $1 for a pound of trash, all the trash in the streets would disappear overnight. But who would make this payment, and what economic reason they would have to do so, are not clear.
Net net, enforcement of the law is pitiful, and economic forces are not aligned to solve the issues you recognize such as transportation, utilities and others.

unnimama March 26, 2009 - 4:05pm

SP's "india moment" when the country finally got to him is familiar to any regular traveler to the subcontinent. Mine was in the 90s sometime when I tripped over a hole in the pavement & hit my head on a low hanging street sign. I had spent the day going from bank to bank trying unsuccessfully to cash travelers checks. "I hate this f--ing country" were the words which came out of my mouth. I looked around, embarrassed. People understand english & so many indians had treated me with kindness. SP enjoyed Kerala because he was welcomed by friends. The hospitality ethic does not work its magic in big cities unless you are lucky. Read Naipaul's Wounded Civilization for the connection between class structure & filth: upper caste hindus cannot engage in cleaning without "polluting" their souls. This means only lower caste/class people do this work. Cleanliness is indeed a strong religious/cultural value; but uppercaste/middle class people must rely on the patience and desperation of "untouchable" individuals. In the 90s our hostess had a big wad of keys hung from the waist of her sari; it provided access to the many doors of the house including the ones entered from the back only by the "sweeper" who came daily to clean toilets. Other keys were for each cabinet & closet in the house including the fridge: unaccessible areas for the servants. No hindu housewife could do that work without losing the respect of her husband & family. I suspect these attitudes may have evolved--but their vestiges remain.
It is a terrible contradiction: cleanliness is indeed next to godliness; but cleaning is the path to perdition. Result: enslaved masses and entrenched filth. (Or maybe it's the other way 'round: rich people who want to avoid nasty work created a system which allowed them to rely on individuals whose behavior in a previous life put themselves on the wrong end of the class divide?) Do not malign the Indians: the paradigm is worldwide. We are lucky to live in a country where its edges are blurred by a minimum wage & immigrant labor eager for any sort of work. The underlying impetus is no different.
Learning how to deal with the overarching cruelty of Indian society was a great challenge. At first I tried to pretend these were visits to the moon & had nothing to do with me personally. I made paintings of the many beautiful places & people. I felt criticizing Indian social structures was inappropriate; I still believe that on some level although in 2004 I came home and made some large, deeply sad paintings. Read Rohinton Mistry's A Fine Balance; somehow it helped me cut through the denial: India's misery really is somehow "our" misery.

Sue Perry March 26, 2009 - 10:18pm

I contest that. I think there is a strong European tradition to value and honor hard and dirty work and the value of cleanliness naturally extends to the work of cleaning up. In fact cleaning up after yourself is probably one of the earliest lessons any child learns regardless of class.

This certainly would have been totally different in feudal times but Europe thoroughly shed those in many violent upheavals.

quax March 26, 2009 - 11:03pm

In NZ the minimum wage has destroyed the profession of street sweepers. They are uneconomical. Therefore we have truck-vacuum cleaner drivers.

I don't think "hard and dirty" is honored.

Unemployment benefits and minimum wages has emptied the pool of people who are so desperate that you can afford to be wasteful of their productivity.

John Carter March 26, 2009 - 11:42pm

but here in amerikkka, we have immigrants and lots of folks ineligible for any public assistance. as a matter of fact, I hear someone in the alley now, digging through my trash for aluminum cans.
and I've found evidence of someone sleeping in my chicken coop and van many times. America has lots of desperate folks


albatross

dk March 27, 2009 - 6:20am

... with machines for street cleaning. Machines like this are a common sight in Germany. Of course disposal service workers in Germany don't make as much money a lawyers but the spread bewteen their average wage will be muck lower than in the US (thanks to regulations of legal fees and strong unions).

But you are missing my point. The comment that I reacted to described an attitude that the rich and wealthy are simply to good to pollute themselves with dirty work. It was further claimed that to a degree this is a global phenomenon. I can not speak for NZ but at least in the neck of the woods were I was raised this attitude would not fly. Even if you were born into wealth it would be very much frowned upon if you would somehow consider yourself to be too good to get your hands dirty once in a while. It really comes down to a simple shared believe that hard work of all stripes is to be highly respected.

quax March 27, 2009 - 10:12am

Well, yes, I'm willing to say that "Indian" work attitudes do perhaps result in uniquely characteristic shabbiness--leading to SP's conclusion that "Indians don't care." Hard (=dirty) work, the burden of lower caste/class Indians, is not respected since in a theological/political system invented to ease life for the elites these burdens can be justified as emblematic of "bad" living in previous lives. But ask yourself about the last time any minimally powerful american suggested raising the wages of janitors. Other cultures are more inclined to clean up their messes, or at least move them to dumps in the Sahara. But the tendency of the powerful to enforce (one way or another) social structures in which they do not clean toilets is (not so remarkably) general.

Sue Perry March 27, 2009 - 2:18pm

The tendency of the powerful to enforce (one way or another) social structures in which they do not clean toilets is (not so remarkably) general

This statement rings so true it should be etched in stone. This insight has been a cornerstone of Leftist social analysis and that is why it is such a shame that Marxism and Socialism degenerated to just yet another such social structure in the former Eastern bloc countries. I strongly believe that only revolt or at least the credible threat of such a revolt can overcome these kind of entrenched Feudal power structures. But with the Socialist movement so thoroughly diminished I don't see this happen any time soon.

quax March 27, 2009 - 6:46pm

or is it futile?
heirarchy seems to be a given structure, which we tear down on many levels; personal, societal, institutional.
but nevertheless, a structure that seems to endure.
elite theory is a trip, if ya ask me.

dk March 28, 2009 - 8:36am

... it is for instance realized in Open Source development. Linus Thorvald became a star (I just noticed for instance the Mozilla spell checker recognizes when you misspell his name) because he really is that good. That's an elite I can gladly suffer.

quax March 28, 2009 - 9:14pm

but he stood on the shoulders of UNIX, which was originally intended to run a GE-645, which series had come out of work on the MISTRAM system of the USAF for tracking missiles.
where would Torvald be w/o the largesse of the US DoD? ;>

dk March 28, 2009 - 10:15pm

doesn't have class structure--divisions just aren't as obvious, but based on money which affects which social class they'll belong.

A listing, not exhaustive by any means: The lowest paid: immigrants, Hispanics and blacks routinely are made up servants, drivers, gardeners, etc. Students, women and mixtures of ethnicities are salesclerks, car washers, delivery personnel, etc. Next are blue-colour workers, ranging from semi-to skilled. White collar jobs ranging from clerks to middle management. Then management, executives up to the highly paid. Professional class and intellectuals. The wealthy class is divided into nouveau riche and old money.

Class structure appears in all societies.

Subtle snobbery: Clothes lines. Labour for getting clothes clean isn't acceptable.

canuck March 29, 2009 - 2:14pm

By-laws outlawing cloth lines seems to be a Canada specific idiocy. I never heard about such a thing neither in the US nor in Germany before I came here.

Fortunately I live in a neighborhood not affect by such ridiculous rules but if I was I'd happily ignore it and let the suing ensue.

quax March 29, 2009 - 5:53pm

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