Calicut Update


Kader and AhamedSanjiv, Ahamed, Kader and Nithin have been keeping me very busy. And not the 'do nothing kind of busy' I was doing in Varkala. As a matter of fact, I've been so busy I've had a hard time piecing together a story for my time here in Calicut. So, today you'll get an abbreviated version of the last few days.

First, how did I meet Sanjiv? I was unaware that Sanjiv and his wife are both long time readers--at least the last five years. That's amazing in and of itself. I mean, really, how many of you have had the same subscription to a magazine that long? Then, when I arrived in Trivandrum Sanjiv sent me a PM saying, he was visiting home (Calicut) from the US, where he lives with his wife. He said he'd love for me to visit Calicut if I had the time. "Hey," I say to myself, "why not? I have the time." Sure, Calicut is not on the tourist trail and that's not the point! the point is the journey, the accidental, serendipitous meetings of new people. And that is exactly what has happened here in Calicut.

So, we set a date and on the 17th Sanjiv, Ahamed and Nithin met me at the train station the day before yesterday. Later the first evening we met Kader, who is Ahamed's older brother, for dinner. They are all very old friends, grew up together and their families have known each other a long time as well.

So, I hear you asking, "what have you been doing in Calicut?"

"Lots!"

More after the jump.

Yesterday we went to the plantation that Ahamed and Kader's family owns. There we saw pepper vines, vanilla, mahogany and rubber. They also grow coffee and cacao. Then we drove into Wayanand Park and saw tea plantations, cardamon plantations and all kinds of other spices. This is the old, fabled, Malabar Coast, where the pepper, black pepper, not chili, comes from.

We also visited a cave with neolithic, Pali and Sanskrit carvings. Quite fascinating to see several thousand years and several different civilizations/cultures leaving their mark on the cave walls.

After that we had an amazing meal, I came back to the hotel and slept, exhausted. All four speak wonderful English, are very well educated and we had amazing conversations, ranging from politics to farming to life in America and India and so much more. If I get the time I'll write more about them.

So, today Sanjiv met me at the hotel and we talked for about an hour. It was nice to finally have some time to talk to him. He's got a great story and I feel a very deep privilege that people like he and his wife and you readers out there too, read this site. I'm not normally gushy and effusive like this. But, he's been an amazing host and my time in Calicut has been splendid. I'm really honored and touched.

After our conversation we headed off to Kader's house for lunch. Lordy did we eat! And Keralan food is the best Indian food there is. Not too heavy, but just right on the spices and the biryani Kader's mother made was simply divine! (Plus, the coconut and mint chutney was incredible, really, imagine fresh coconut and fresh mint ground together and mixed in with delicious, fluffy biryani!)

After lunch we all sat on the veranda and talked. For my money--and mind you, I'm a kind of wannabe, quasi-intellectual, there is nothing better than a great conversation after a meal. We had fresh tea and talked about everything. A bunch of well informed, intelligent people laughing and conversatin' (as we say down Texas way) about all kind of things: the financial crisis, exporting crops from India, imports, farming, food, women, men, politics, movies, America, America's place in the world, America's influence in the world, Islam, Hinduism, Indian politics, Keralan politics, local scandals. We covered it all!

Again, I'm short on time here, as I have another dinner to go to shortly. And I will write about the topics we discussed in the future. But the point is they've been amazing hosts. And my time here in Calicut has been extraordinary. It's been a real treat. And for that I am very grateful!


Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 8:09am

on this trip; as opposed to your previous visits to India, it would seem.
look at all those spices, just growing up a tree! and your lunch description is just killing me. you lucky dog!

are you hearing any local good music? there must be a folk music scene in India. I would imagine the commercial music is like Bollywood

dk February 19, 2009 - 9:20am

local music: no, haven't heard any folk music. Of course, I hear local music blaring at all hours everywhere and am assualted by it on buses etc. . . but folk music? I reckon when I see my friend in Calcutta we'll be doing some of that.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 9:29am

As seen from France in the 1750s (or, perhaps, earlier) - one never knows.

I would hope that you have enjoyed your most delightful luncheons and teas with the Indian Montesquieu, Voltaire and Montaigne. It is rahther a pity, isn't it, that you were unable to meet the Indian Danton or Robespierre, but it is probably too early for that.

Just remember that there are many Indias and you have only met some of the Indias from the upper class.

My prediction: when the Indian Revolution comes, it will make the French and Russian Revolutions and Stalin's Ukraine Famine and Mao's Induced Famine look like a picnic.

Albert

P.S.: In Indian English, first is never used in compound numbers, it is oneth.

Albertde February 19, 2009 - 4:28pm

criticized now for seeing all aspects of India, I take it? So, I'm not allowed to meet all Indians? I can only meet the poor ones? And the taxi drivers? The small farmers and the beggars? And the shopkeepers? Am I only allowed to spend my time with the Dalits and Adivasis? Is that how it is supposed to work? If so, explain to me how only meeting them and not meeting some well-heeled Indians gives me a better picture of the total that is India? I'm curious how that works? Rubbish.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 9:51pm

No, my point is you are taking the opinions of the upper class as representative of India as a whole.

And that's exactly what Thomas Friedman does. (He takes the opinion of the people he meets in a country as representative of the country). Hence both of you agree as to what the Indian Muslim stance is re the Bombay terrorists while it is really the stance of an Indian Muslim organization.

How then would you account for the cheers among poor Indian Muslims after 9/11?

When you have social activities (long conversations in congenial surroundings) with Indians of other social classes / castes then you can start to make statements about Indians in a particular part of India.

But even there you have to be careful. People may be telling you what they think you would like to hear rather than what their real opinions or feelings are.

Albert

Albertde February 19, 2009 - 10:37pm

Muslim slum there, I will also tell you what they have to say. That being said, the conversation we had last night over drinks, well, when a man has had a few beers in him and pretty much says the same thing I take it that it is something he believes, as alcohol tends to, well, you know. I don't think these guys were telling me what I wanted to hear. I've a feeling they were pretty straight up. However, I do take your point and concede it. It is a good one.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 10:46pm

The Economist, since 1968.

Synoia February 19, 2009 - 6:51pm

National Geographic, 1976, though it lapsed for a couple years in the early 80's.
I think I had a susbscription to Highlights in '68. I still love the hidden pictures in the Dr's waiting room, does that count for something?

dk February 19, 2009 - 11:39pm

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 10:47pm

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