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Calicut Update
First, how did I meet Sanjiv? I was unaware that Sanjiv and his wife are both long time readers--at least the last five years. That's amazing in and of itself. I mean, really, how many of you have had the same subscription to a magazine that long? Then, when I arrived in Trivandrum Sanjiv sent me a PM saying, he was visiting home (Calicut) from the US, where he lives with his wife. He said he'd love for me to visit Calicut if I had the time. "Hey," I say to myself, "why not? I have the time." Sure, Calicut is not on the tourist trail and that's not the point! the point is the journey, the accidental, serendipitous meetings of new people. And that is exactly what has happened here in Calicut. So, we set a date and on the 17th Sanjiv, Ahamed and Nithin met me at the train station the day before yesterday. Later the first evening we met Kader, who is Ahamed's older brother, for dinner. They are all very old friends, grew up together and their families have known each other a long time as well. So, I hear you asking, "what have you been doing in Calicut?" "Lots!" More after the jump. Yesterday we went to the plantation that Ahamed and Kader's family owns. There we saw pepper vines, vanilla, mahogany and rubber. They also grow coffee and cacao. Then we drove into Wayanand Park and saw tea plantations, cardamon plantations and all kinds of other spices. This is the old, fabled, Malabar Coast, where the pepper, black pepper, not chili, comes from. We also visited a cave with neolithic, Pali and Sanskrit carvings. Quite fascinating to see several thousand years and several different civilizations/cultures leaving their mark on the cave walls. After that we had an amazing meal, I came back to the hotel and slept, exhausted. All four speak wonderful English, are very well educated and we had amazing conversations, ranging from politics to farming to life in America and India and so much more. If I get the time I'll write more about them. So, today Sanjiv met me at the hotel and we talked for about an hour. It was nice to finally have some time to talk to him. He's got a great story and I feel a very deep privilege that people like he and his wife and you readers out there too, read this site. I'm not normally gushy and effusive like this. But, he's been an amazing host and my time in Calicut has been splendid. I'm really honored and touched. After our conversation we headed off to Kader's house for lunch. Lordy did we eat! And Keralan food is the best Indian food there is. Not too heavy, but just right on the spices and the biryani Kader's mother made was simply divine! (Plus, the coconut and mint chutney was incredible, really, imagine fresh coconut and fresh mint ground together and mixed in with delicious, fluffy biryani!) After lunch we all sat on the veranda and talked. For my money--and mind you, I'm a kind of wannabe, quasi-intellectual, there is nothing better than a great conversation after a meal. We had fresh tea and talked about everything. A bunch of well informed, intelligent people laughing and conversatin' (as we say down Texas way) about all kind of things: the financial crisis, exporting crops from India, imports, farming, food, women, men, politics, movies, America, America's place in the world, America's influence in the world, Islam, Hinduism, Indian politics, Keralan politics, local scandals. We covered it all! Again, I'm short on time here, as I have another dinner to go to shortly. And I will write about the topics we discussed in the future. But the point is they've been amazing hosts. And my time here in Calicut has been extraordinary. It's been a real treat. And for that I am very grateful! Sean Paul Kelley February 19, 2009 - 8:09am
( categories: Agonist Travel Journals | Asia: South-West )
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