Malacca, Or Melaka, Whichever You Prefer


Malacca RiverI awoke pretty early this morning. I must admit I was irritated at the prospect of waking up so early at the start of a long vacation. But I had a bus to catch and tomorrow I plan on sleeping in a long time. Matter of fact, I took an absolutely wicked nap (in the best sense) this afternoon during the heat of the day--and it is Ramadan here so nothing much goes on during the day--that lasted about two and a half glorious hours. The bus trip from Singapore to Melaka (I prefer Malacca) took about three and a half hours. It was a damned interesting drive. Rolling hills, palm plantations as far as the eye can see, verdant green lush jungles peppered with orange flowers and from time to time cell towers jutting straight up from the jungle. (You can find today's photos here.)

It rained the first hour of the trip but then the skies cleared, after all, the Monsoons have passed. Blue skies spread out all around and then the heat rose up from the land and wilted everything. I arrived in Malacca about 1pm, found a hotel and immediately set about seeing the old town. And no, ES, I wasn't blogging on the freaking bus, you ninny!

More after the jump

What's so special about Malacca? Well, for centuries it played the role of Singapore. It wasn't until an accident of British Imperial history that Singapore was literally invented. But that's by the by. The city is much like Singapore in the range of cosmopolitanism here: Chinese, Malays, Indians (mostly form Tamil), Sri Lankans and even a small community of mixed Sino-Portuguese Christians inhabit a small slice of the city.

I climbed St. Paul's Hill, where a Portuguese church was built in 1523 (subsequently destroyed by the Dutch and then taken over by the British). After wandering around the old Western Colonial areas I wandered around the original colonial areas: Chinatown. Having been to China I must say it wasn't very impressive, aside from the few odd pieces of architecture. The highlight of the day was certainly looking out on the Straits of Malacca from Saint Paul's Hill and seeing a collection of container ships and oil tankers unlike any place I've ever seen.

And now, I'm getting ready to dive in to a dish of fresh sting-ray and white rice. So excuse me while I eat and enjoy the photos.

Update: In case you are wondering, yes, the sting-ray was delicious. As a side note, I've met three separate pairs of Russian travelers today, two Czechs, three from France and several Aussies. Damn.


Sean Paul Kelley September 24, 2008 - 6:26am

How are you connected to the ROW (Rest of World)? Cell?

By the way, penguins are south. I believe you are going North. How do you plan to see penguins?

Synoia September 24, 2008 - 9:19am

Yes, I am heading north. But I plan on being in South America at some point in the next year. Hence, penguins.

As for connected: there will be times when I will not be. But Malaysia is a developing country and wifi is relatively available.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley September 24, 2008 - 8:23pm

It is a dance that travelers do, sometimes alone and sometimes in the company of others. You will meet old friends you've never seen before. But you know that, that is why you are going. You certainly have a good list.
I look forward to your reports from Mother India. She can be harsh, but I expect she will shatter you with her love.
Who knows, I may see you out there this year or next. I go to the mountains mostly. I went to the Himalayas a long time ago and haven't got them out of my system yet.
Mostly now I go to look at the kindness in the eyes of strangers. You don't see it much in the cities, but the villages are another thing. And you will find a way to give back.
So here's to our friends of the road.
Hesse's 'Journey to the East' clued me in to what was going on. You might even find a copy out there somewhere.

JT September 24, 2008 - 10:04am

Is there a PayPal link somewhere on the site that I'm missing? I would like to, from time to time, click a few $$ your way to support your journey -- and my vicarious enjoyment of it.

LindaR September 24, 2008 - 11:27am

want to do this on my own. That being said, you never know. I'll keep you posted and I do appreciate your generous offer.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean Paul Kelley September 24, 2008 - 8:25pm

McSame wants to bail out of friday's debate!!!!!
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/25/us/politics/25mccain.html?hp

creativelcro September 24, 2008 - 2:46pm

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