So, You Want To Travel The Silk Road?


Christian Caryl reviews Colin Thubron's new book, Shadow of the Silk Road, in the most recent New York Review of Books. In it he makes an excellent point on what it takes to travel the Silk Road today:

If you want to travel the modern-day Silk Road and live to tell the tale, then, it's a good idea to be on your guard against certain temptations. You'll need the gift of illuminating the achievements of the route's ancient civilizations even while deflating the myths they so easily encourage. You'll have to digest a huge, intimidating layer cake of history and cultural knowledge that encompasses the religion, economics, and art of long-dead societies as well as the subtleties and quirks of existing ones. You should succumb to the mystique of the artistic and historical fragments that remain while refusing to idealize the world from which they come. If you want to travel the whole way, moreover, you'll need a certain toughness, a bracing insistence on getting the story no matter how adverse the conditions. Command of several of the relevant languages certainly won't hurt. Be sure to stay on your guard, always ready to hold your own against curious customs officials or greedy cops. And above all, resist the urge to dismiss a messy pres-ent in favor of the traces of the past.

distanceMany people have asked me, "why is it taking you four years to write this book?" Or this one: "why are you reading so many different and diverse books, like the Shi Ji or a History of Iran? Or the Shahnameh for crying out loud?" And my favorite: "why do you keep going back?"

Read the above paragraph again and you'll start to understand the extent of the enterprise I've embarked upon.

Tom Bissell wrote a wonderful book about Uzbekistan, one I enjoyed immensely.

He's a skilled storyteller, a natural raconteur. But his book lacked what the above paragraph calls for. Sure, he told the tale of Stoddart and Conolly, but everyone knows that one.

Why stop there when there are so many other examples, anecdotes and stories, more illuminative and fascinating and unsentimental.

As my father once said to me while we were in Shahkrisabz, Uzbekistan, the home of Tamerlame: "It makes you just want to keep going, on to the next destination, over the next mountain range, just keep going." It's a seductive place and only by traveling it do you come to know it.


Sean-Paul Kelley December 13, 2007 - 1:58pm
( categories: Asia: Central | Histories )

My mom studied China for over 70 years and as a kid she read to us about China every night. The richness of the stories, the intensity of the personalities and the tapestry of intrigue, the sheer complexity was mesmerizing, not to mention she was a helluva orator herself. Her father traded in the late 1800's in China, he was deaf so the stories he brought home were always booming loud she said but oh so worth it. Carry on.

mainsailset December 13, 2007 - 4:51pm

So, is the river Oxus still there? Or has that dried up with all of the other bodies of water in the region.

monkey knife fight December 13, 2007 - 9:09pm

happens when the glaciers in the Pamirs and Tien Shan dry up and the water flowing into the Jaxartes (Amu Darya) and the Oxus (Syr Darya) go away. Will it occur in my lifetime? Perhaps. And the Uzbeks are the worst of water wasters I have ever seen.

“Is not our first thought to go on the road? The road is our source, our vault of treasures, our wealth. Only on the road does the ‘traveller’ feel like himself, at home.”
Ryszard Kapuscinski

Sean-Paul Kelley December 13, 2007 - 9:20pm

I am heading out in January for my 12th or so trip to the Himalaya region, India this time. When I get the question: "why return?", I used to BS about a book. It's a good cover. But now I don't even pretend.
It's about a tale that can be told but never finished.
To be a good guest, it is always good to make offerings along the way.
At some point, I would like to ride a horse in the Ferghana Valley and stand on a hillside where apple trees first grew.
The silk road is a noble and somewhat neglected thoroughfare of the planetary village. You are right to make the warning about the pickpockets and thieves.
But hey, they just keep you honest and paying attention.

JT December 13, 2007 - 9:45pm

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